The Light that Guides

A dreamlike scenario began to unfold. The young Chilean boy guided me out of the dark and humid bowels of this ancient fortress, and now stared into the light. I felt my pupils painfully contract as intense brightness flooded my vision. My mind's eye took over, and a familiar sight swept over me. A grassy esplanade dominated by gleaming white monuments. An immense Egyptian obelisk and a hulking Capitol Dome. A city of trees and parks, of stone and brick...the place that I had last called home. But when I stepped forward and adjusted my eyes, Washington, D.C. did not lay before me. The Colombian city of Cartagena had taken its place.

Taking the Scenic Route

Medellin is a city of a thousand views. The second largest metropolis in Colombia once fit in a valley, but has spread dramatically up the surrounding hillsides. The vantage from any of these ascents is magnificent. But it's unnecessary to put on climbing boots to appreciate Medellin's grandeur. All you need is a metro ticket.

Always Talk to Strangers

Getting up from the table, you walk by the front window of your home and are surprised to see a complete stranger staring inside. He is clearly not from around these parts. What do you do in this situation? Politely and firmly ask him to go away? Threaten to call the police? Or, invite him in, give him a tour of the house, and feed him a hearty lunch? That is exactly what Roberto, from Jericó, Colombia choose to do. This generous act is emblematic of the residents of the majestic coffee region of Colombia, undoubtedly one of the most beautiful areas in all of South America.

More than Cocaine and Coffee

Mention to someone that you're planning on visiting Colombia and cynical admonitions may result. Dangerous guerilla movements. Random kidnappings. Widespread drug-related violence. These are the images that immediately spring to mind to many raised on a diet of sensationalist western media. Accordingly, I had no plans to visit Colombia before leaving for this latin journey. However, over the preceding seven and a half months, I had met so many travelers who raved about this diverse nation that I decided to swing by and check it out for myself. First stop: Bogotá.

Built with an Eye Towards the Heavens

South America is full of places with fascinating histories. From the mighty Inca civilization cradled in Cusco, to the mysterious islands of Lake Titicaca, to the ravaged silver mines of Potosí, the continent is distingushed by a rich past. But the modern capital of Brazil has an entirely unique story to tell. There is no other city like Brasilia, at least on this planet.

A Tale of Two Rios

There are two sides to every metropolis. On one hand, there is the picture-postcard ready city that invites tourists to come and marvel at its attractions. On the other, exists the city that most tourists and wealthier residents would rather avoid. While this happens all over the world, perhaps nowhere is this divide more pronounced than in Rio de Janeiro.

Northern Adventure

I shifted into fifth gear, released the clutch, and pressed down on the accelerator. The speedometer climbed to 140 kilometers per hour as the never ending fields of northeastern Brazil raced past. Rounding the crest of a hill, my heart suddenly dropped. I slammed on the brakes and skidded to a stop mere feet from the lazy goat blocking the middle of the road. Everyone in the car released their breath and sank back into their seats. With an irritated glance in our direction, the bearded animal plodded forward and out of our path.

The Bash of Brazil

When most people think of Carnival in Brazil, they think of brightly colored, scantily clad samba dancers in Rio de Janeiro. But the most popular Carnaval celebration in Brazil is not in Rio; it is in the tropical locale of Salvador de Bahia. For one week every year, well over a million people descend on this bustling port city to join a party that is unrivaled in the world.

Unforgettable Falls

At the intersection of Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay, lies one of the natural wonders of the world. The falls of Iguazu draws visitors from all over the globe, and for good reason. The beauty of this place surpasses anything that mankind could ever hope to create.

City of Tango, Fútbol, and Faded Elegance

Buenos Aires, Argentina, is surely one of the most fascinating cities in the world. In terms of history, architecture, and culture, few places can match it. The two weeks that I spent here left me wanting more, and if there is anywhere that I have traveled in South America that I can see myself living one day, it has to be here.

A Trip to The Barber

Vote for your favorite "Look" in the comments below!

What's a Razor?

Another First: Professional Shave!

Like Father, Like Son

Jovial Sea Captain

The Buscemi

Smooth...as a Baby's Bottom!

Beards of Patagonia

I woke up, rubbed the sleep from my eyes, and walked out onto the balcony. Scratching the scruff on my cheek, I took a hearty sigh. Today was the day: the day I would shave off La Barba de La Patagonia. I had mixed feelings about removing my beard; I had grown a tad attached to it. But I was entering a new phase of my trip and I felt that it was time for a change. As the intense morning sun of Buenos Aires revived my senses, I reflected back on the month that I had just spent in Patagonia.

Argentina: The Musical

Leaving Bolivia behind, I walked across the border into Argentina. For the last 15 minutes, I had been pacing down a smuggler’s paradise of cheap clothing, pirated media, and knockoff electronics. But after rambling for 20 minutes in La Quiaca, Argentina, the only thing of note I passed was a parking lot. This is a ghost town. Finally, I found the bus terminal and bought a ticket for the next colectivo to the provincial capital of Salta. The four hour bus journey to the frontier had been an uncomfortable rough and tumble ride over bumpy dirt roads. In comparison, the eight hour trip to Salta was bliss…but more on the transcendent luxury of bus travel in Argentina later. With the pleasant melodies of Folklore Argentino playing on the overhead speakers, I drifted to sleep.

Dreams of Dali

There are some places on Earth so bizarre that you question whether they somehow ended up on the wrong planet. Places that will alternately take your breath away and leave you feeling cold and distant. The southwest corner of Bolivia holds an amazing diversity of these places, and is a magnet for adventurous souls from all over the world.

The Hardest Job in the World

The Cerro Rico of Potosí, Bolivia underwrote the Spanish Empire for over two centuries. This immense silver mine has been under constant assault every since its discovery over 400 years ago. Countless thousands, perhaps millions, have lost their lives from working in this hell on Earth. And it is still being mined. I would have the opportunity to experience first-hand what surely must be the toughest job in the world.

Take Me Out to the Ballgame

Unique experiences motivate me to keep traveling and learning about the world. They are also what I most enjoy to share on my blog. Recently I stumbled upon a fascinating event that surely cannot be found in any tourist guidebook: The Bolivar Games.

La Hoja de Coca no es Droga

 My mission was simple: escape the cloud forest alive. My sharpened machete cut a path through the thick vegetation while the fistful of coca leaves inside my cheek propelled me forward for hours in a hunger-less daze. Unseen predators lurked here; I could sense their presence. Nightfall was coming but I pushed on. The forest would not claim me as it had so many others...

Not Always a Thrill, but Always an Adventure

In the past few weeks I've had my credit card eaten by a hungry cash machine, gotten altitude sickness, had my wallet stolen, "lost" money at the worst possible time, and nearly fallen off a cliff. Yet I've also had unforgettable experiences I will treasure for the rest of my life. That is, if I manage to keep from falling off a cliff.

The City That Will Take Your Breath Away. Literally.

I´m currently holed up in the highest capital city in the world: La Paz, Bolivia. While I recover from altitude sickness, I´d like to show you the view from my hotel.

Altitude of La Paz: 12,008 feet
Room in Downtown Two Star Hotel: 15 dollars
View from Hotel Terrace: Priceless.

2 Month Reflections

Now that I've been traveling for two months, I'd like to share some observations that I've made on South America and myself.

- I have met travelers from over 30 countries thus far. The most common nationalities I've encountered: English, Australian, Dutch, German, French.

- I tend to gravitate towards befriending foreigners as opposed to Americans (No offense to my American friends)

- Americans are usually only found in the most touristy locations. I suspect this is because we generally take less vacation time than Western Europeans and therefore have less time to get off the heavily beaten track (myself excluded!)