Treasures of the Nile

Speechless. That's the sensation that overcame me upon my first sight of the Great Pyramids of Giza. Ever since learning about ancient Egyptian civilization in elementary school, some small part of me had skeptically regarded it all as fanciful myth. Perhaps because the grand works of the Pharaohs stirred a part of my imagination normally reserved for interplanetary spaceships, eye-patched pirates on the high seas, and other things I'd read about in books but would never likely experience in real life. But here I was, staring at the last remnant of the world's seven wonders. And the indisputable reality of what I saw left me at a loss for words.

Ghosts of Syrian Wars Past

I drove away from the Druze village of Majdal Shams and turned on to a lonely highway headed south. A military convoy sped past in the opposite direction. The Israeli army had been a constant presence since my arrival in the country two weeks ago, even more so since I'd crossed into this disputed region. Something suddenly caught my eye up ahead. I pulled over the car and stepped out into the fierce winds of the Golan Heights. In front of me was the detached turret of an old tank, laying right alongside the road. The massive gun was aimed at a ruined city located a little over a mile away. I realized with a startle that not long ago I had been walking amongst those very ruins, in the target of this menacing weapon and across a contentious border. As if in confirmation, I caught sight of the red and black-striped flag of Syria, waving defiantly in the distance.

A Wall to Unite, A Wall to Divide

A surge went through my bloodstream as the reality of my surroundings sunk in. Experiencing this place had been a motivating force in my travels over the last two years, and now I'd finally arrived. I had made it to Jerusalem, a place whose history and importance could fill entire libraries. I gazed over the old city and shook my head in astonishment. The relatively small area before me was immeasurably sacred to three of the world's great religions. Somehow, devout followers of all three coexisted here, although not always in peace. With a deep breath, I descended from my viewing point and made my way down into the medieval streets of the holy city of Jerusalem.

From Indiana to Jordan

As a young boy, I remember watching in awe as a heroic adventurer named Indiana Jones came upon the staggering site concealing the mythical Holy Grail. The sheer scale and beauty of the place in which he entered seemed so fantastical that I would have been shocked to learn that it was indeed a real location. While the film Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade may have been a work of fiction, it succeeded in capturing the true sense of wonder evoked by the ruins of Petra, Jordan. Some places prove that seeing is indeed believing.

Finding the Way East (Part Three)

The hulking ferry lurched forward into the Red Sea. We left behind the historic port city of Aqaba, made famous to Westerners by Lawrence of Arabia (picture a heavily made-up Peter O'Toole dramatically exclaim, "AK–AH–BAH! ") Pious Arabs wearing robes and skullcaps sauntered into the aisles of the ship, dropped to the floor and prostrated themselves in the direction of Mecca, which I suddenly realized was right on the other side of this body of water, so close you could almost touch it. After a short journey our vessel docked. We had reached the Sinai Peninsula. I stepped onto Egyptian soil and braced myself for the ensuing chaos of landing transport to my destination. Aggressive Bedouins spotted myself with another Westerner who I had befriended on the ship, and rushed forward with their sales pitch. Soon, we were surrounded. It seemed a fight would break out amongst them as they quarreled with one another as to whom would have the honor of transporting us for heavily inflated prices. We finally ended up in a minibus, but my new friend discovered that she was missing her bag. I wouldn't be surprised if some unsavory character snuck away with it in the commotion of moments earlier. I felt sorry for her but also grateful that I still had all my possessions. The bus pulled away and I stared out the window as jagged mountains ebbed in the fading evening light. As dusk turned to dark, I finally arrived in a place where the air is freshened by the sea, time seems to slow, and many a backpacker find themselves happily stranded.

Finding the Way East (Part Two)

Losing yourself in the Old City of Damascus is a must for anyone who visits Syria. It's easy to envision some ancient tale of intrigue lurking behind the corner of every meandering alley. But perhaps the best part of getting lost here is suddenly finding yourself in the courtyard of the Great Mosque. It was in this beautiful and historic space of reverence and calm that I decided to extend my stay in Damascus. Beyond simply being a tourist, I wanted to get a taste of what it was like to live in the Middle East. My growing fascination with this city, and my desire to pick up some of the local language, led me to enroll for an introductory course in Arabic at the University of Damascus. Within four days, I jumped through all the necessary hoops: visiting the heavily fortified US embassy to get Uncle Sam's approval, waiting in a long line outside of a Syrian clinic for a blood test in order to be confirmed HIV negative (not kidding!), and successfully finding a place to live for the next month. Before I knew it, I was in a classroom, copying down Arabic script from a whiteboard, and struggling to correctly pronounce Arabic syllables. What? You mean to tell me that you have a letter that sounds like "aaaaaaAAAAHHHH"???

Finding the Way East

November 8th, 2010: a day that I will never forget. As the sun set over Damascus, I faintly heard a call to prayer echo from a minaret in the distance. Within seconds, the lone voice was joined by others which boomed out in the ancient Syrian capital that glistened before my eyes. The cries multiplied and interwove while their combined volume, climbed, climbed, and climbed, feeding my ears a soundtrack somehow both jarring and intoxicating. This experience seemed an appropriate way to say goodbye to a place that had captured my imagination and enticed me to stay much longer than planned. Soon, I told myself, I will move on to visit more jewels of the Middle East. The mighty ruins of Petra in Jordan. The rambling quarters of Old Jerusalem. And the colossal Pyramids of Egypt. But just as my extended stay in Damascus had been unexpected, little did I know that another surprise was in store for me that evening: a moment that would shape the following four months in unforeseen ways.

The Good Life in the Dead Sea

Alright, let's see what benevolent act the King has performed today... This is the good life, folks: floating effortlessly on calm waves, catching up with the latest news, and taking in a picturesque view of Israel. Throughout recorded history, the Dead Sea has been an object of fascination for its unique chemical and therapeutic properties...but mainly just because floating without trying is pretty damn cool. The shores of this ultra-saline body of water are just an hour's drive from the city of Amman, Jordan. My visit to the Dead Sea was a definite highlight of the three weeks which I spent in the bustling capital.  f you make it here, don't forget to bring along the day's paper for some relaxing reading...Now let's see, which page was I on again...

Christmas Breakfast in Egypt

Falafel, Green Pepper, Sliced Tomato, Baked Beans, French Fries, Feta Cheese, Tahini, Fried Egg, Cucumber, Pita Bread, Fresh Strawberry Juice.

Decisions, Decisions...

Captured in Souq Hamidiyya, Damascus, Syria.

Kids of Syria

The more time that I spent in Syria, the more friendly, warmhearted, and smiling individuals I came across. Contrary to the negative, foreboding impression conveyed by the American media, there can hardly be a more welcoming place to visit in the world. It's important to distinguish between the actions of a government and the soul of a people, and I've learned that this is especially true in the Middle East. So, I was happy to have my initial impressions overturned and to acquire a fuller, more positive image of the people of Syria. I hope that these portraits I captured of Syrian children can go a little way towards eroding the unreasonable fears that many harbor towards a people that always seem to end up on the wrong side of the news. As always, comments are appreciated!

Click here to view the High-Resolution gallery (takes longer to load.)

Click here to view the Medium-Resolution gallery.

Heart of Hezbollah, Airwaves of Norway

It sounds like the start of a parlor room joke: “An Englishman, a Norwegian, and an American pull up to a gas station in Southern Lebanon asking for directions to Hezbollah...” But there was no farce involved in this stunt. The rental car idled quietly as the attendant patiently explained our next move. Fifty miles to the southeast, high up in mountains still cratered from the impact of deadly explosions, our destination awaited: the multimillion dollar centerpiece of a radical Islamic movement.

The Finest Castle on Earth

This is Crac des Chevaliers, the finest castle on Earth. And where is the finest castle on Earth, you may ask?  In Northern Syria, but of course. This medieval fortress was a bastion of the Crusaders and was never successfully besieged. In fact, the Ottoman Empire maintained a garrison here well into the 19th century. Crac des Chevaliers is so well preserved, that if you listen closely enough, you can practically hear the footsteps of soldiers trapped in time. As if that wasn't enough, the castle is a photographer's dream. Pity the analog-age tourist who visited with just a single roll of film. Have a look for yourself...and don't be surprised if you hear faint footfalls of bygone knights echoing across the ages...

Click here to see the Photos!

An Alien in Arab Lands

My heart was pounding as I stepped out of the punishing heat and walked into the Syrian border control office. Before this moment, I had never been nervous when crossing into a new country. But Syria was different. I knew practically nothing about this place. In fact, I could not recall ever meeting a Syrian in my entire life. From the media, I only knew that the words "Syria" and "rogue state" had been tossed around in the same sentence, and that the U.S. considered the Syrian government a supporter of terrorism. The positive assurances I had received from other travelers had done little to assuage my fears. As an American would I be viewed suspiciously? Would I be ushered into a windowless office and interrogated? Or would I simply be turned away and told to return to Turkey?

The Art of Aleppo Street Crossing

Aleppo Street Crossing from Adam S on Vimeo.

An instructional video for crossing busy streets in Aleppo, Syria. Frogger, eat your heart out. Special thanks to Richard for putting his life on the line.

Beauty of Mardin

Most travelers who visit Turkey are advised to stay away from the Southeast. Unfortunately, this region has gained a reputation for violence committed by militant Kurds. But those who skip over this area miss one of the highlights of all of Turkey; the exquisite town of Mardin. Many of the buildings showcase an incredibly intricate style of arabesque stone carving. Dramatically perched on a mountainside overlooking the vast desert plains of Northern Syria, it as if the entire village is an outdoor museum. I visited the town on a day trip while staying in the nearby city of Urfa, and despite the potential for danger, did not regret my decision for a second. I hope that this photo gallery can do justice to the beauty of Mardin. Please enjoy the pictures and leave a comment!

Click here to see the photos! 

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The Scooter Diaries

Entry #1:

I sit on the saddle, tighten my helmet strap, and switch on the ignition. I thank the attendant and prepare to take off down the road. He must notice something unusual in my stance, because he calls out, "Wait...have you ever rode one of these before?" When I shake my head from side to side, his eyes widen. "This is very dangerous!" he exclaims. I think to myself, I've seen 12 year old boys riding motor scooters around here, how hard can it be? But I decide that it is probably a good idea to get a little instruction. His colleague gives me a crash course in scooter operation, and finally I'm ready to roll. I resolve to hit maximum speed by the end of the day.

This scooter is my ticket to exploring the fantastical region of Cappadocia, Turkey. It may not be a Harley, but it'll do. 

Jamming in Olimpos

Sometimes amazing things happen when I break out my guitar on the road. Like catching the ear of one of Turkey's outstanding flamenco guitarists, Murat Koseler...who just so happened to be staying at my hostel in Olimpos, Turkey. Thanks to Stoo for uploading the video!

The Stars Below

Upon reaching the Mediterranean coast of Turkey, two things had become clear: 1. It's hotter than Hades here. 2. Paradoxically, I've come down with a cold. The rotation of sweltering suns and air-conditioned rooms had proved too much for my confused immune system. But, I resolved to take it in stride. By now, I've been sick enough times on the road that I've come to appreciate the positive aspects of falling under the weather while traveling. I can stay in bed as long as I want without feeling like I need to go see a tourist site or plan the next leg of my journey. I can lose myself in a book. And I can give myself a mental break from absorbing the culture of the place in which I currently find myself. Today, I've decided to allow myself the luxury of ordering take-out pizza from my hostel. That's right: delicious, Domino's pizza. It's not Papa John's, but I'll take it.

Sunset in Pamukkale

 

Sunset over Pamukkale, Turkey.